The Appropriation of Black Features: A Deep Dive into the Trend vs. Reality

For decades, Black women have been criticized, shamed, and excluded for their natural features—full lips, curvy bodies, wide hips, and coily hair. These same features, however, became trendy and desirable only when non-Black women adopted them. This phenomenon is not just about beauty standards; it’s about cultural erasure, profit-driven appropriation, and the systemic devaluation of Black women while simultaneously capitalizing on Black aesthetics.

Let’s break this down in a historical, social, and economic context.

1. The Historical Foundation of Anti-Black Beauty Standards

1.1. The Case of Sarah Baartman: A Symbol of Exploitation

Sarah Baartman, a Black woman from South Africa, was paraded around Europe in the 1800s as a freak show attraction because of her naturally curvy body.
She was objectified, hypersexualized, and treated as less than human because of the very features that are now celebrated when surgically replicated on non-Black women.
This historical exploitation set the foundation for the double standard Black women continue to face today.

1.2. The Dehumanization of Black Women’s Bodies

Throughout history, Black women have been labeled as “too much”—too thick, too loud, too bold.
Features that were naturally theirs were considered ghetto, unprofessional, or unattractive—until white women and influencers began enhancing their bodies to mimic these same traits.

1.3. Beauty Standards Rooted in Racism

Western beauty ideals have long favored thin bodies, small lips, and delicate features—traits historically associated with whiteness.
The erasure of Black beauty was deliberate—a tool used to reinforce white superiority and keep Black women marginalized.

2. The Shift: When Black Features Became Profitable

2.1. The Rise of the “Exotic” Look

Over time, society began to crave a more “exotic” appearance—full lips, thick curves, and tan skin.
This shift only became acceptable when non-Black women chose to adopt these features—through surgery, fillers, and artificial tanning.
Instead of embracing Black beauty in its natural form, the mainstream preferred a curated, marketable version of Black aesthetics on non-Black bodies.

2.2. The Billion-Dollar Industry Built on Black Aesthetics

The Lip Filler Boom:
- Black women were mocked for their full lips for generations.
- In 2015, the Kylie Jenner lip challenge went viral, making big lips trendy overnight.
- Kylie capitalized on this trend by launching a makeup empire—but Black women with naturally full lips never got the same praise.
The BBL Craze:
- Black women’s curves were called “too thick” or “unprofessional”—especially in corporate settings.
- But once influencers and celebrities started surgically enhancing their bodies to mimic this shape, curvy became the new ideal.
- The BBL (Brazilian Butt Lift) industry grew by 90% in the last decade, with people literally risking their lives for a look that Black women have naturally.

2.3. The Erasure of Black Women in Their Own Beauty Movement

Black women were never given the grace to celebrate their own features before non-Black women made them mainstream.
Even when these features became trendy, Black women were still excluded from major beauty campaigns, modeling gigs, and high-fashion endorsements.

3. The Backlash: When the Trend Fades, So Does the “Love” for Black Features

3.1. The Sudden Shift to “Natural Beauty”

Many of the same influencers who popularized BBLs and lip fillers are now reversing their procedures and dissolving their fillers.
Why? Because society is shifting again—now, the “natural” look is back in fashion.
This proves that Black features were never truly appreciated—they were simply a trend that could be tried on and taken off.

3.2. The Continued Policing of Black Women’s Bodies

When non-Black women remove their BBLs and fillers, they are praised for “maturing” and embracing their natural selves.
But Black women with these same natural features are still subjected to stereotypes, dress codes, and microaggressions in schools and workplaces.

4. The Real Issue: Appreciation vs. Appropriation

The problem isn’t that Black features are admired. The problem is that Black women were never given the same respect for having them naturally.

4.1. What is Cultural Appropriation?

Cultural appropriation happens when a dominant group takes elements of a marginalized culture without giving credit or acknowledging the history behind them.
In this case, Black beauty standards were co-opted for profit, while Black women remained excluded from the benefits.

4.2. What is Cultural Appreciation?

True appreciation would mean uplifting Black women, hiring them for beauty campaigns, and allowing them to be the face of the trends they set.
Instead of profiting off Black features on non-Black women, brands should center Black women in beauty standards and media representation.

5. Moving Forward: How Do We Stop the Cycle?

5.1. Acknowledging Black Women as Beauty Pioneers

Instead of praising non-Black influencers for trends that originated with Black women, we need to give credit where it’s due.
Black women have always set the trends—from braids to curvy bodies to bold fashion choices.

5.2. Holding Brands and Media Accountable

Demand representation of Black women in beauty and fashion industries.
Call out brands that use Black aesthetics but exclude Black women from their campaigns.

5.3. Challenging Beauty Standards That Exclude Black Women

Recognize that diverse beauty isn’t a trend—it’s reality.
Push back against eurocentric beauty norms that still dominate industries.

Final Thoughts: It’s Time to Stop the Exploitation

Black beauty is not a trend.
Black women deserve to be celebrated in their natural form, not just when their features are copied by others.

Until society values Black beauty without needing a white or non-Black approval stamp, the cycle of appropriation will continue.

It’s time to uplift Black women, credit them for the trends they create, and stop profiting off Blackness while excluding Black people.